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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.